Olives

What they contribute

Olives bring concentrated briny, fruity, savory bursts that punctuate the soft crumb and rich oil of focaccia. They are traditional in Ligurian baking, where small Taggiasca olives echo the region’s olive-oil heritage. A scatter of good olives can carry an otherwise plain focaccia.

Quality matters more than quantity: a few excellent olives beat a heap of bland ones.

Which olives to use

Taggiasca (small, mild, fruity Ligurian olives) are the classic focaccia olive. Castelvetrano are buttery, mild, and bright green — very crowd-friendly. Kalamata add a bolder, wine-dark, tangy note. Mixed Mediterranean brined olives work well too. Avoid the dull, rubbery canned "black ripe" olives, which taste of little.

Buy them from a brine (deli counter or jar) rather than a can whenever you can — the flavor difference is large.

Pitted versus whole, and prep

Olives with pits generally taste better and firmer, but you must pit them yourself (press with the flat of a knife to pop the pit) and warn eaters if any stray. Pre-pitted olives are convenient and safer for serving, if slightly softer. Either way, pat olives dry before they go on the dough — surface brine can make the top wet and prevent browning.

Press whole or halved olives firmly into the oiled dimples so they anchor and do not roll off when the focaccia is sliced.

Buying and storing

Deli-counter or jarred brined olives keep for weeks refrigerated in their brine; keep them submerged so they do not dry out. Taste before using — if they are very salty, a quick rinse tempers them. Do not add extra salt to an olive-heavy focaccia without tasting, as the olives already season it.