Rosemary

What it contributes

Rosemary gives focaccia its signature piny, resinous, slightly camphorous aroma that pairs perfectly with olive oil and flaky salt. It is a hardy, woody herb, so unlike basil or parsley it can survive a hot bake — which is why it became the classic focaccia topping.

A little goes a long way; rosemary is assertive. A light, even scatter perfumes the whole loaf without turning it medicinal.

How to use it without burning it

The key move is oil plus placement. Strip the needles from the woody stem, toss them in a little olive oil, and press them into the oiled dimples so they are partly embedded and bathed in oil. The oil shields them from direct radiant heat so they fry and crisp gently instead of scorching to bitter black flecks.

Rosemary left dry on the exposed surface is the usual reason it burns. For very long or hot bakes, you can also add some near the end. Whole small sprigs make a pretty garnish but the needles carry the flavor.

Fresh versus dried

Fresh rosemary gives the brightest, most fragrant result and is worth seeking out. Dried rosemary is more concentrated and heat-tolerant but can be dusty and sharply piny — use less, and crush it a little to release aroma. Between the two, fresh is the focaccia standard.

Rosemary also pairs beautifully with garlic and potato (as in potato-rosemary focaccia), where its resinous edge cuts the richness.

Buying and storing

Fresh rosemary keeps for a couple of weeks wrapped loosely in the fridge, and it is one of the easiest herbs to grow on a windowsill — a single plant supplies far more than you will use. Dried rosemary keeps for months in an airtight jar away from light. Strip only what you need; the woody stems are not eaten.